![]() So, that I can do stuff, with more ease.ītw, cordless butane-powered framing nailer guns - ROCK!! Use a hammer to drive in a 3" nail? Ha, ha, ha! Snap On 3/8" Drive Long Handle Sealed Ratchet FL830 (~10" ~~$55 used in good shape)Ĭouldn't find a good static image to link, so here's an ebay link to a search: Snap-On Ratchet Sealed Head Dual 80 Extra Long Handle 3/8" Drive 17 1/2" FLL80 (~~$80 used in good shape) It's more compact, and there isn't a pipe that moves/wiggles around while you're doing some ratcheting. Imho, I find them better than using a pipe. Not cheap.īut, you may find a used on on ebay for a non super high price. Edited Jby LukeZ34ītw, snap-on makes some nice 3/8" ratchets with looong handles. I just don't see any way to install that pad without removing the trailing arm. ![]() Guess I will swing by the garage Monday morning, and let them put it on. I am pushing 60 years old, so I just can't get her done like I use to do. The only thing that broke loose was a rib of mine that made a popping sound. I don't have any air impacts, so I knew it was going to be a bear to break that bolt with a 15/16 inch wrench or big breaker bar and impact socket. That dang trailing arm sits there right in the way. ![]() Put the rear on jack stands, used a block of wood and a six inch c-clamp to try to get the spring to raise out of the knuckle, but I could not get close enough to the end of the spring to raise it up enough. I tried to install the Moog transverse spring isolator pads. The factory rubber is completely gone on both sides. After I got the new struts on, I inspected the ends of the leaf spring where it goes into the knuckle, and there was absolutely nothing on either end of the spring. My 92 Cutlass Supreme S still has some clunking noise in the rear.
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